Do you have mineral-heavy water? The corrosive-resistant Stainless Steel model is likely a good fit. Do local regulations require you to install a closed system hydrant? We recommend the Contaminant-Free version of Simmons’ Classic design. From our best-selling Classic to the Contaminant-Free model, all Simmons’ hydrants are crafted, machined, and assembled with care. Take a look at our six different models and find the one that’s right for you.

The bury depth of your yard hydrant is determined by the frost line in your region of the country.

Almost every issue with a Simmons Frost-Proof Yard Hydrant can be addressed without digging it up; in fact, utilizing the appropriate hydrant repair kit can keep your hydrant in service for decades. To troubleshoot a leaky hydrant or other issues, please review one of our hydrant repair videos or consult Simmons' standard repair instructions.

A cracked or damaged bypass valve will require you to dig up your hydrant, but everything else can be repaired with the hydrant in the ground.

Adjusting the fulcrum bolt typically addresses the hose adapter leaks, but sometimes you’ll need to replace the hardware in the hydrant head, which requires you to use a hydrant repair kit. Review the video below for instructions on how to install a repair kit.

Puddles of water and a higher than normal water bill are indicators of a leak at the weep hole of the bypass valve, but there is another way to check for that. When you shut off the hydrant, wait for the water to stop draining from the hose adapter. After another minute or so, hold your hand up to the opening of the hose adapter. If there is a leak underground, you’ll feel a slight suction from the water flowing into the bypass valve and out the weep hole.

Do not leave your hose attached to the hydrant in cold weather. Do not leave any attachments at all on your hydrant head as they will compromise the hydrant’s draining function. If water remains in the hydrant head and freezes, it can crack the head and render the hydrant unusable.

All Simmons hydrants are certified lead free.

There are a few key differences between a yard hydrant and a pitcher pump. Yard hydrants connect with municipal water lines or private wells, and pitcher pumps are designed for shallow/drive point wells. Pitcher pumps are not made to drain into the ground to prevent freezing, while yard hydrants are. Yard hydrants generally provide water to outdoor locations while pitcher pumps are more multifunctional in their uses.

We’ve received calls and letters from happy customers with Simmons hydrants still in use over 50 years after they were installed. Simmons’ yard hydrants are designed for reliability and manufactured with care. When properly installed and serviced, our hydrants can function optimally for decades.

Simmons’ Economy model (900 series) requires the 851SB hydrant repair kit, while all other Simmons hydrants series use the 850SB repair kit.

Several of our hydrants have distinctive head styles making it easy to discover which style matches that of your hydrant.

Remove the hydrant head and pour some liquid soap or non-silicon-based lubricant down the pipe. Allow sufficient time for lubricant to work its way down to the plunger and try again to lift hydrant from the valve body by twisting rod clockwise and pulling up steadily. DO NOT TWIST PUMP ROD COUNTER-CLOCKWISE OR YOU COULD DISCONNECT THE PLUNGER.

When replacing the plunger, be sure to gently tap down on the rod to seat the plunger in the valve body. You should see the rod go down approximately 1-1/2” if the valve body seat is clear. If the valve is obstructed, the plunger won’t seal properly. The obstruction is often bits of rubber from the old plunger that remains in the bypass valve. First, attempt to remove the rubber by turning on the water full force to wash it out of the pipe. If that doesn’t work, you will need to fashion a hole saw to catch and remove the obstruction. A modified coupling (add saw teeth or a wood screw, see picture) works well for this, and can be threaded onto the pump rod, lowered into the pipe, and then slowly rotated clockwise while applying slight pressure in order to snag the rubber. Once the rubber is snagged, slowly pull the rod up through the pipe and remove the rubber bits. Now you can install your new plunger and it will seat snugly and correctly in the bypass valve.

We recommend using the Double Vacuum Breaker as it helps protect against low pressure back-siphonage. It will also enable proper drainage of the hydrant even when there is a hose attached.

The flow rates for all Simmons hydrant models (except the Contaminant-Free model) are as follows:

• 12 Gallons per Minute (GPM) at 10 PSI

• 20 GPM at 20 PSI

• 27 GPM at 30 PSI

• 32 GPM at 40 PSI

• 34 GPM at 50 PSI

Hydrant replacement parts and repair kits can be purchased via www.simmonshydrantparts.com and most of these items can be overnighted if needed.

The flow lock wheel on a Simmons hydrant allows you to control the flow rate of water through your hydrant. Simply open the hydrant to the desired rate of flow and then use the flow lock wheel to set that flow. This accessory is especially useful for hydrants exposed to livestock that may jostle the handle or garden irrigation systems.